![]() ![]() Those who look past the GOOP-y branding and weekend DJs will find one of the most enjoyable places to eat on the far west side. Herein lies the surprise of Electric Lemon. Their texture is bouncy and their flavor is only faintly sweet. They shimmer from a light glaze, smelling of cinnamon and wet earth. They’re rare yeast versions of the autumnal treat, normally made in the cake variety at farmers markets. Things seem dire until the apple cider doughnuts arrive. Among them: Dolph Lundgren and some tech VP. A pre-shift manual for waiters, left near a window, offers a primer on carrot juice (“cancer preventer”) and beets (“creates a sense of well-being”), as well as a list of VIPs staying at the hotel. The kitchen stuffs squishy breakfast sandwiches with heady chicken sausage and pairs them with side salads instead of home fries. A guy in a Patagonia-style vest wears AirPods throughout his entire meal, even while complaining about his eggs. Lean torsos jut up like slender tree trunks through drawstring hoodies. Arms bulge through artisanal sweatshirts. There, among the normals, scores of people who look like cutouts from Men’s Health are brunching. Most folks will instead take an elevator to the 24th floor. Maybe you are - if you’ve got $2,000 to spend on two nights. ![]() This is, to be fair, all what one might expect at Hudson Yards’s Equinox Hotel, a self-proclaimed “temple to total regeneration” with a 60,000-square-foot gym.Ī lobby host asks if you’re checking in. Another photo, depicting a sculpted lower back, recommends a flax seed and sweet potato bowl following a few sets of reverse squats. The venue speaks to a “high performance lifestyle,” per its own Instagram of a trainer’s chiseled tricep. It claims to provide “ wellness and nutrition” through “ clean, conscious cuisine” - you know, earthy spelt toast, breezy Brazil nut chia bowls, and, um, Pop Rocks. “Most importantly, it is flavorful to the core,” says Knall.Electric Lemon is a very good restaurant designed to attract a clientele of fitfluencers, or at least those who dream to be. ![]() But the chefs hope you won’t get too caught up in the menu’s healthy hype. If you typically order a beer, the cocktails might give you pause: One has a base of hibiscus juice and mezcal another contains a syrup made from leftover snow pea shells. Shareable dishes like flatbread made from gluten-free flour, potatoes, flowering broccoli and shaved sheep’s milk cheese are encouraged there. The Rockwell Group-designed restaurant is meant to be social: The bar area has lounge chairs and there’s an expansive terrace with stellar river views and couches. “We are thinking about cooking responsibly and using the appropriate amount of fats and protein.” “It is geared to the lifestyle of people who are staying at the hotel and working out at the gym,’’ says Knall of the menu. ![]() Nonna-style pasta is nowhere to be found, but a gluten-free chickpea variety with sungold tomatoes, shishito peppers and basil might scratch the carb itch. There’s also soft egg crepes with beef tartare, sorrel and smoked oyster sauce. There’s nothing so decadent as Le Coucou’s fried veal head or foie gras, but meat lovers can sink their teeth into lamb with roasted eggplant, wild mountain cumin and yogurt flavored with sumac, a tart Mediterranean spice. Lightish bites include oysters with the aforementioned hay (for a smoky, aromatic flavor), whole roasted trout with “green things from the garden” (as the menu puts it) and Hudson Valley steelhead trout in something called “tomato water.” Whole-roasted trout at Electric Lemon Jason Varney Reps tell The Post that 85 percent of offerings are gluten-free. His latest project, Electric Lemon, will be unveiled among Hudson Yards’ restaurants Thursday, on the 24th floor of Equinox Fitness’ new hotel, which explains the atypical health-conscious fare.Ĭhef Kyle Knall’s mid-Atlantic menu focuses on seasonal ingredients from local farmers, fisheries and artisans, prepared in a light, clean style. Cider-soaked hay? Wild mountain cumin and sumac yogurt? Celery broth? This is new-ingredient territory for Stephen Starr, the Philadelphia-based uber-restaurateur who kicked off the summer by reopening classic French bistro Pastis with Keith McNally and lists Le Coucou, Clock Tower, Upland and Morimoto among his successes. ![]()
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